Wheels last decades, so buying used is normal and sensible. The parts that age are predictable, most are replaceable, and the single most useful question to ask a seller is whether the maker still supplies parts for that model.
What to check on a used wheel
Rock the wheel head gently by hand: it should turn smoothly with no click or play, because that is the bearing. Run it and listen. Work the pedal from stopped through to full speed, feeling for a dead zone or an abrupt take-up. Look underneath for water damage, which is the thing that quietly kills wheels left in a wet studio.
What is cheap to fix
Pedals, belts and, with more effort, bearings. All are available for machines from established makers. A wheel with a failing pedal from a supported maker is a bargain; the same wheel from a maker who has vanished is a gamble.
Buying new
Suppliers list wheels with stated centring capacity, head diameter and whether a bat system is included, and lead times are usually short compared with kilns. Buying new brings a warranty and a supplier who will answer questions, which for a first machine has real value.
Moving one
Wheels are heavy and awkward and studio machines are two-person lifts at least. Drain and dry the splash pan first, and check the route in: doorways, steps and the final position. This is a smaller problem than moving a kiln and it is the same kind of problem.
Questions people ask about pottery wheel
Is a used pottery wheel a good buy?
Usually, from a maker who still supplies parts. Bearings, pedals and belts are the parts that age and all are replaceable.
What do I check first?
Play in the wheel head, noise while running, and smooth pedal take-up from stopped. Then whether parts are still available.
Is buying new worth it?
For a first wheel there is real value in a warranty and a supplier who will answer questions.